Mechanical watches are fascinating objects. I think I speak for many of us when I say it’s not
just the outward appearance of a watch that we enthusiasts appreciate but also the inner
workings and mechanical wizardry. With that in mind, why do so many watches hide this behind
a dial and a closed case back? OK, there are times when a no-nonsense tool watch needs to
focus on legibility and the task at hand — distractions are not always welcome
However, sometimes, we want to see what’s going on inside these tiny ticking marvels on our
wrists. Seeing the geartrain and balance in motion is an absolute joy to behold. That’s where
skeleton watches come into play. These watches eschew dials and case backs to allow an
unfettered view of the movement. With that in mind, let’s take a look at eight of the best
stainless steel skeleton dial watches.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Skeleton Ref. PFC912-1020001-100182
Price: $40,000-$45,000, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 8.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.6mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
Skeletonized watches can be a little polarising, even among those who appreciate them.
However, it’s hard to argue that the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Skeleton is anything but a tasteful
execution of the skeleton concept. Combining the stainless steel case (and that brilliant PF
bracelet – seeing is believing!) with the vertical satin-brushed graphite dial creates a
monochromatic canvas where the 18k rose gold indices and hands provide a perfect contrasting
accent. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Skeleton is a perfect example of high-end Swiss
watchmaking with a touch of Italian flair. Bellissimo.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Openworked Ref. 15407ST.OO.1220ST.01
Price: $130,000-$140,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 9.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.2mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 50M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
No list of skeletonized watches would be complete without one of Audemars Piguet’s superb
examples. Perhaps the finest example is the Royal Oak Double Balance Openworked. As the
name suggests, the watch utilizes two balance wheels instead of the more traditional single
balance wheel. Why? Well, this upgrade addresses stability challenges by incorporating the
additional balance wheel and balance-spring assembly on a shared axis. This innovative,
patented design requires a highly intricate manufacturing process but yields significant benefits:
enhanced accuracy and stability. That’s all well and good, but it also looks mighty cool. And
that’s what we’re all here for, right?
Girard Perregaux Laureato Skeleton 42mm Ref. 81015-11-001-11A
Price: $19,000-$20,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 10.88mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.1mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
It’s crazy to think that Girard Perregaux’s Laureato turns 50 years old next year. However, this
timeless classic from the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based has not changed much since its
introduction in 1975. Sure, we’ve seen a few tweaks here and there, but the lineage is strong
and apparent. The most obvious element is the octagonal, circular bezel. Here, it acts as a
porthole into the relatively open and pared-back skeletonized movement. The almost awkward
and “not quite symmetrical” layout of the movement elements adds a certain visual allure. Not
every watch lends itself to skeletonization, but the Laureato takes on this persona with ease.
Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton Ref. WHSA0028
Price: $21,000-$23,000, Case Size: 39.8mm, Thickness: 9.08mm, Lug-to-Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: N/A, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual, Material: Stainless Steel
Cartier has always approached watchmaking in its own unique way. Its approach to
skeletonisation is no different — Cartier’s Santos De Cartier Skeleton Green 40mm Ref.
WHSA0028 is the perfect example. Skeleton watches rarely have something that can be
considered a traditional dial. However, Roman numerals are an essential element of Cartier’s
Santos design. To get around this issue, Cartier integrated a complete set of twelve Roman
numerals into the movement structure, serving as the baseplate and bridges for the movement;
Impressive stuff and a unique solution to an otherwise complex design problem.
Make sure to check out our full review of the Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton WHSA0028.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J
Price: $24,000-$26,000, Case Size: 29.9mm, Thickness: 10.88mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.4mm, Lug Width: 22m, Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manual, Material: Stainless Steel
I know many people enjoy the idea of a skeleton watch but feel they may not wear it a lot.
Skeletonized watches are a little more “out there,” after all. If you fall into that category, then the
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J could be for you. The Reverso
is famed for its dual-sided design. In this instance, it’s a Duoface, meaning it has two functional
dials. On one side, we have a simple and classic two-handed time-only dial, but flip the case
over, and we have a skeleton dial offering a full view of in-house, manually-wound,
column-wheel, chronograph caliber 860. Lovely stuff!
Check out our full review of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Ref. Q389848J here.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Ref. 3811-1200
Price: $60,000-$65,000, Case Size: 42.8mm, Thickness: 11.7mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.1mm, Lug Width: 22m, Water Resistance: 120M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
H. Moser & Cie’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon is exceptional. There’s no other word for it, as
evidenced by its capture of the Tourbillon prize at 2022’s GPHG Awards. The small but
eye-catching domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock features a blue fumé, with fumé colors something of
a signature for H. Moser & Cie. This allows the remarkable three-dimensional movement to take
center stage. Combining a cylindrical hairspring with the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock,
H. Moser & Cie guarantees the excellent precision while also offering a unique spectacle of
motion and mechanical marvel.
Check out our review of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Ref. 3811-1200 here.
Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton Blue Ref. 03.9300.3620/79.I001
Price: $9,000-$10,000, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45mm, Lug Width: 22m, Water Resistance: 100M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
The Defy is one of Zenith’s older collections, dating back to 1969, but it is still very much alive
and kicking today. Rather than relying on old, reissued designs (though there are some), Zenith
uses the Defy collection to flex its design chops with a focus on modernity. The Defy Skyline
Skeleton Blue is a perfect example of this approach. The triangular and boomerang-shaped
cutouts in the dial form a four-pointed star pattern, a nod to the original logo found in past Zenith
references. Underneath, the skeletonized movement is finished in the same color as the dial,
along with the satin-finished star-shaped rotor.
Hermes Arceau Squelette Ref. AR2.71
Price: $5,500-$6,500, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: N.A., Lug Width: N.A., Water Resistance: 30M, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic, Material: Stainless Steel
With the instantly recognizable asymmetric, stirrup-shaped case, the Arceau Squelette is
Hermès’ only skeleton wristwatch. As one would expect from a Maison like Hermès, the Arceau
skeleton has a lot of appeal. The stirrup-shaped case pays homage to the brand’s equestrian
roots, while the smoked sapphire dial, with the rather charming italicized numerals, allows a
glimpse of the skeletonized caliber within. With its Arceau Squelette, Hermès displays an
uncanny capability of blending artistic creativity with no-nonsense watchmaking in a rather
unique way.